After nearly a year of work, we've finally released our Blue Point™ manual turnout controllers!
Then use our Flex Link™ push-pull tube and hardware packs, which allow runs up to 3 feet from the fascia to the Blue Point™.

We've also had a number of questions about using the Blue Points™ under 2" thick foam. The simple answer is yes, they work great. The tension and throw adjustment slider provides more than enough range to handle long runs of spring wire. We include .032" diameter spring steel wire with the product, which is quite rigid. You can also slip a brass tube over wire that extends through the foam to provide more power at the throw bar, if needed.

Installation
Installation is very simple. We have just released our new Flex Link™ system for hooking up Blue Points™ to your fascia. These kits include everything you need.

 


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Specs

We've designed the Blue Point™ Turnout Control to operate turnouts in scales from N through O. The electrical contacts are double pole, double throw (DPDT) rated at 5 amps, so they have plenty of capacity to power a frog or just about anything else you'll want to drive.

DPDT Switch Diagram

The picture on the right has two diagrams. The left diagram shows the numbering of the contacts (viewed from below), while the right diagram shows how these contacts are arranged electrically. When the switch is in one position, contact 5 is connected to contact 4, and contact 2 is connected to contact 1. Move the switch to the other position and now 5 is connected to 6 and 2 is connected to 3.

Typical DCC-Friendly Turnout Wiring

And finally, here is a typical wiring diagram for a powered frog found on DCC-friendly turnouts:

Note: This is a view from above, which is why the numbers are in a different order from the diagrams above (they are views of the bottom).

There are a number of different designs for turnouts, with the wiring being a little different for some of the turnouts. You can find a lot more information about the different turnouts at this link: Wiring Turnouts.

Comparison With The TORTOISE™ Slow Motion Switch Machine

We've had a number of people ask about the price of a TORTOISE™ Slow Motion Switch Machine compared with our Blue Points™, so here is a quick comparison:

Description

Blue Point™

 TORTOISE™
Switch Machine
Retail Single Packs $12.95 $18.95
Retail bulk pack (per unit) $9.99 $17.50

We also thought you might be interested in a size comparison, because sometimes size does matter. If you look closely, you'll notice the Blue Point™ has deeper mounting slots, allowing more side-to-side adjustment. Also, the sliding fulcrum has detents to hold the fulcrum in position once you've set it.

Finally, a word about the pros and cons of each. There are times when a TORTOISE™ Switch Machine is your best choice, and times when a Blue Point™ is best. If you have a main-line railroad with CTC and need dispatchers to control turnouts, obviously an electrically-operated turnout like a Tortoise would be your best choice. However, for sidings and yards, or a small layout, we think the Blue Point™ would be your best choice. Once you've experienced the feel of throwing a turnout by hand with our Blue Points™, you'll see what we mean.

* The TORTOISE™ Slow Motion Switch Machine is a trademark of Circuitron, Inc.

Made in the USA

All of the manufacturing of this product is being done here in the state of Washington. We had the molds made about an hour's drive from us and the actual injection molding was done about 45 minutes from here.

Pricing

Description

Price
40018 - Blue Point™ Manual Turnout Control $12.95
40018-5 - Blue Point™ (5-pack) $59.95
40018-10 - Blue Point™ (10-pack) $99.95

 WE TAKE: Pay pal, money orders, and Checks. contact us. pa@pawstrains.com     our address

When paying with  Pay-Pal pay To: pawstrains@msn.com

 
STEP IMAGE

DESCRIPTION
1 #1   Center point rails with masking tape. Place switch on layout and mark position with marking pen so it can be returned to its same position. Using a pin vise and small drill, drill down into top of layout thru tie bar as shown. This will create a guide hole to drill the 1/4" hole completely through layout.
2 #2   Remove switch and drill 1/8” starter hole, then 1/4” finish hole, or drill 3/8” finish hole if layout is thicker than 1 1/2”.
3 #3   Chamfer both top and bottom of hole.
4 #4   This is the drill template shown in our instruction sheet. It is a must that you use this template and make a drill fixture. Using the drill fixture will exactly locate the four mounting holes in relation to the 1/4”. This means that the Blue Point is centered every time you mount it so you can achieve equal tension on the switch point to stock rail tension. From our instruction you can make your own drill fixture or buy one from us.       (Buy Drill Fixture)
5 #5   Place the drill fixture in 1/4” hole. Make sure centerline of fixture is aligned with centerline of track. Now drill the four holes completely through the layout.
6 #6   This picture shows drilled 1/4” hole, mounting holes and switch relocation marks
7 #7   Shows chamfered 1/4" hole and marked mounting holes. By marking mounting holes with black marking pen makes them easier to find when attaching Blue Point under layout. A minimum of two screws mounted diagonally will hold the Blue Point fine.
7a #7a Complete “Flex Link Starter Kit”  (#40022) for mounting and operating one Blue Point.
8 #8    Pre assemble Blue Point, wire, clevis and bracket with black clamp.
9 #9    Picture shows Flex Link clamp and screw. Flex Link clamp has two hole sizes, one small and one large. Screw should pass through large hole and screw into small hole. When Blue Point, bracket and clamp are mounted under layout screw head should face toward floor so it can be adjusted easily.
10 #10   Complete Blue Point and Flex Link parts assembled ready to mount to layout. We used masking tape to hold bracket to Blue Point for easier installation. We have used two screws mounted diagonally across from each other with good success. Feed Blue Point control wire up through hole in layout and into throw bar hole in switch points. Then we first install one screw and snug it up, but not completely tight. This holds Blue Point in place so second screw can be installed easily. Trim masking tape off of each side of Blue Point so it will move when final adjustments are made.
11 #11    Complete Blue Point assembly mounting with red outer tube sticking through 11/16” hole that has been drilled through back-up block. Remove yellow tube before going to next step.
11A  
11B  
12 #12   Mark red tube at face of back-up block
13 #13   Push red tube out and cut at marked line. Be careful not to split tubing at end when trimming off.
14 #14   Push red tube back into back-up block until it is flush.
15 #15   Install threaded rod into yellow tube about a 1/4” deep. Grab stud with needle nose pliers just above the 1/4” area so balance of threads will not be damaged. This will prevent problems when threading stud into clevis.
16 #16   Push yellow tube into red tube and screw into clevis on Blue Point. Operate the Blue Point by pushing and pulling yellow tube. Make sure action feels smooth, with no binding. Now push yellow tube in and mark it with black pen.
17 #17   Unscrew yellow tube from clevis and pull out slightly, enough to trim tubing off at mark. Now attach control knob with 2-56 screw and washer to yellow tube. Make sure it is tight. Then screw threaded stud back into clevis. This step might be made easier by using the Philip head screw in the control knob to screw the stud back into clevis. When knob is pushed in there should be a slight space between back of knob and the face of the back-up block.
19 #19   Picture shows recessed or flush mounted control knob mounting.
19A #19a   After Blue Point is completely mounted grab the control wire with your fingers and gently pull up on it while you are cutting it off. Try to keep your cutters as flush to the rails as you can as shown in the picture, this will leave very little sticking up so it will not interfere with track cleaning.